Moscow news
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07-Jun-2007
Kazan: A Thousand Years Young
What first strikes a visitor to Kazan is the patchwork of buildings from different epochs, ranging from ancient past to post-Communist present. Street signs are in Russian and Tatar, both using the Cyrillic alphabet. Newly repainted buildings from the 19th or mid-20th century stand in stark contrast to others others on the verge of dereliction.
Kazan, capital of the Republic of Tatarstan and a city of 1.2 million residents, is said to sit on seven hills - just like Rome. It occupies an area on the left bank of the Volga river and on both banks of its confluent, the Kazanka. It has its own Kremlin, Russia's second oldest university and a number of mosques - many of which were erected in the past 15 years.
As one of Russia's oldest cities, Kazan celebrated its 1,000th anniversary two years ago. For many in Russia, the city is most strongly associated with the 13th and 15th centuries when Russia fought against Mongolian invasion. Even the name dates back to the time when the various peoples invaded by the Mon?golian khans were referred to as ?Tatars'.
The second notable period in Kazan's history was the 19th century when, thanks to its location in the eastern part of the Volga region next to the Urals, Kazan became a transit point between European Russia and Siberia and the Far East. That fuelled an economic boom during which many of the buildings in the contemporary city center were built. The development of Kazan continued in the Soviet era, when it became the capital of the Tatar Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic and a major regional industrial and education center.
In the city center, Krem?lyovskaya street connects two of Kazan's important landmarks. One is Kazan State University, which Vladimir Lenin briefly attended in the 1880s before he was expelled for involvement in student protests. Another is the Krem?lin - the only former Tatar fortress still standing in the Russian Federation. Unlike the Moscow Kremlin, its 9th century walls and towers are white, with a noticeable touch of Tatar architecture. Inside, an Orthodox cathedral stands next to the recently erected mosque of Kul-Sharif. A 5-meter monument to Tatar poet Musa Dzhalil, who was killed by the Nazis in 1944, occupies a square next to the walls.
From the Kremlin Hill there is a good view of the city's sections on the right bank of the Kazanka. Un?fortunately there isn't much to see beyond factories and ugly residential areas filled with five-story khru?shchevkas. Dekabristov Street is a notable exception, a fine example of 1950s Stalin-era architecture lined with massive buildings boasting semi-columns and bas-reliefs. Incidentally, the buildings must have been repainted on the eve of the millennium celebrations two years ago as they are still in a decent state. Their condition stands in stark contrast to buildings in other sections of the city, such as the the dilapidated converted hotel on Chernyshevsky Street.
Down the hill from the Kremlin, one encounters an upmarket area of residential cottages. Walking along Kremlyovskaya away from the Krem?lin, past the gloomy buildings of Tatarstan's Supreme Court and the General Prosecutor's office, one eventually reaches the main building of the university, erected in 1825.
Universitetskaya Street descends from the state university building to Gabdulla Tukay Square, named after the Tatar poet and often referred to by locals as the ?Koltso' (Ring). The Ring is the midpoint of the modern city center and a popular hangout for local youths. The square hosts the Koltso shopping center, a few other modern buildings and a recent monument to historian Lev Gumilyov. A pedestrian walkway, Kazan's equivalent to Moscow's Arbat, starts on the Ring. New shopping and office centers scattered around this area - smaller versions of those in Mos-
cow - reflect Tatarstan's relative wealth. The republic ranks among the richest regions of the country thanks to its oil reserves, which are controlled by state-run Tatneft. Still, as elsewhere in Russia, newer buildings are rather homogeneous and often lack individuality or style.
A subway line was built to commemorate Kazan's 1,000th anniversary. It currently has five stations linking the city center with the Gorki residential area. For the time being its use is more symbolic than practical though, since most residents still prefer to get around town by bus, trolleybus or tram.
In honor of the an?niversary, Kazan also created a Millennium Park on the left bank of the Kazanka, a basketball court,
an outdoor sports stadium, a new
bridge over the Kazanka - also called Millennium - and a new hippodrome. Tatarstan's President Minti?mer Shaimiyev is said to be fond of horses, which apparently explains his decision to build a second hippodrome (the old one dates back to the 1950s).
Following Pushkin Street away from the Ring, the visitor comes across an exceptionally beautiful park flanked by the solemn Stalin-era Opera and Ballet Theater. Across the street from the theater, the new building of the State Council of Tatarstan occupies Freedom Square - formerly Lenin Square - where a monument to the former university student still occupies the pedestal.
Late spring and early summer are probably the best times of year to visit Kazan. Fresh green foliage and lilac blossom cover the city, making areas that would otherwise be rather gloomy look quite cheerful and pleasant.
Meanwhile, finding authentic Tatar food might be a problem in Kazan, as locals say that Tatar cuisine mainly focuses on pastry. Still, there are a few restaurants that claim to offer Tatar cuisine, including Bilyar on Butlerov Street and Dom Tatarskoy Kulinarii (House of Tatar Cuisine) on Bauman Street. Hotels range from the unreconstructed Soviet-style to the recently opened "Suleiman Palace Hotel" run by an international hotel chain. Kazan is a ten-hour train ride or 90-minute flight from Moscow.
By Vladimir Kozlov
The Moscow News